Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
